The OEM Regulator was not malfunctioning, but I had to turn the OEM Parts into a spare Purchased in
The OEM's Regulator was a Plus screw, which was so tightened that it could not penetrate Apply oil and leave it on
I turned the square shaft driver that fits the screw with MONKEY Wrench and removed it
If you point the Wiring of the Regulator to the outside of the vehicle, the Wiring will be handled better by There's a lot of room and it's easy, but the Pipe of the exhaust system is right below Considering the thermal effect on the wiring, the Wiring is mounted towards the Center side of the vehicle
Wiring of the purchased Regulator is four, and the CRM50 OEMRegulator's Wiring is 6 wires (AC:2 wires, vehicle BodyPlus:1 wire, Minus:1 wire, and (CondenserPlus:1 bottle, Minus:1 bottle)
Because each Plus line and the Minus line were conducting, the A 2-pole bullet terminal is attached to the end of the Plus and Minus lines, and the car is used for the Branch connections were made to the body and condenser
Plus and Minus Wiring behind the air intake of the air cleaner case side, extending Wiring a little bit to go through the Quantity:Set. protecting Wiring with Colgate Tube
I tried to place AC Wiring as well, but ACWiring didn't want to extend it It is placed in the space above the air intake (so as not to be crushed by the Seat)
Quantity Wiring:Set, then bolt the Regulator to the OEM mounting position
I measured the voltage after installation and it was 14.5V compared to about 13V for the OEM
Blinkeretc. on Idling is more stable than the OEM
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